Kinda spendy up front but the ability to change the cutters out may work out in the long run for you. If you are doing a whole lot, you may want to check out for some Amana bits with replaceable knives. Cut depth isn't particularly important as you will only be machining down a few thousands at a time. The trick for your particular job is to find a good bit. In reality though, virtually any quality 2HP or so router will do what you're asking, even from the Craftsman line ( which, incidentally, are pretty good routers these days). the "?" is because it comes in 3 different flavors, MRP 23 is the plunge base version, MRC23 is the combination kit version with fixed and plunge bases and the MRF23 is fixed base only. If you are looking at a bit more power, the bosch MR? 23 is a lot heavier and more powerful and will do the job nicely. The bosch 2.25 hp (aka model 1617) is well able to do that. Step 1: Cut the Rail Parts I cut six total 48 strips (2) 4 strips for the base of the rails, (2) 3 3/4 outer rail parts and (2) 2 1/2 inner rail parts. It's simply how I see it.For flattening, aka planning, you need to be able to throw a fairly large cutting diameter bit with a set of flat bottom cutters. So I need a completely smooth flat face to both. For example, I have 2 pieces of walnut plank, each being a foot long x 8' wide, cut from the same large plank, and I want to glue them together to make a block. I don't aim to offend by being blunt or matter of factly. I have a router sled, and want to know the best bit to use to flatten pieces of wood to a glue quality face. Not necessarily bad, but bad for hand tool workers more often than not. It's sad but it's obvious that our society has become dependant on quick and cheap a side effect of automation and the industrial revolution. This causes real, by hand woodworkers to fall by the wayside unless someone is looking specifically for the human made, deficiency filled work that can also be beautiful. We drill out the center hole for the bit to go through the base and leave it up to the customer to drill the holes needed. ![]() It’s compatible with any router with a plunge base. The length of the sled can be custom made to just about any size youd like. It's all too common for maker spaces, local milling shops, cabinet shops, furniture fabricators etc to have CNC's these days. That measurement changes with a bit larger or smaller. If that sounds like you then go that route but using hand tools, while very rewarding, will take you forever(by today's standards) and may either cost you more than you want or cause you to lose the contract before you get it because of time constraints. Essentially with the sled all you're doing is building a CNC bed that you're running by hand. Then you move the router away from making contact with the wood, move the sled over a bit to overlap the section you just flattened, hold the sled in. I've considered the sled technique at home several times and may yet do it but as of yet laziness and the ability to use the CNC has pinched me every time. The way the sled above works is you position the sled over the section you want to flatten and hold it in place then move the router back and forth along the sled and flatten that strip of wood. It shouldn't take any shop longer than a few hours to a full day of surfacing to flatten any slab with the same setup that we have. This isn't an ad for our shop but instead my advice to get this done painlessly. It takes a while depending on the bit quality, type of wood, figuring etc but as long as it's under 3' thick we can do it. We can surface anything up to 4'2" X 16'1" simply by clicking a button.
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